london remembered

to steal ira glass's classic this american life transition: act two. with two huge accomplishments in the books - tying the knot at timberlake and then circumnavigating the USA from east to west and back - we had a whole new story to write in the next chapter of our journey in europe. in act two, we were excited to learn, observe, try new things, and see old friends on the other side of the atlantic. this stage felt like the first 50-100 pages of a new novel. you now have a feel for the characters and what makes them tick out in the world. now was the time to drop those characters - the rambling beasts - into action where the real plot unfolds.

we began the european leg of our adventure with a brief stopover in london en route to turkey. it had been five years since i was in the UK after several whirlwind semesters living, working, and studying in primrose hill, maida vale, and kensington, and up north in newcastle. it had been a little longer for steve since his solo backpacking days. we landed early on a tuesday morning in typical fog and light rain with plans to hit the pavement hard for two days before continuing on to istanbul.

my favorite way to see london is on foot. despite fighting a proper downpour and jet lag that first day, we covered lots of ground in our 48-hour layover. feeling like i had once known many of london's neighborhoods like the back of my hand, my knowledge and muscle memory was immediately put to the test. we stepped off the platform at paddington station, dropped our luggage at the gresham hotel, and hit the streets. we explored the arab late-night cafe culture on edgware road, hustled down (and away from) oxford street, crossed through mayfair and trafalgar, westminster, and south bank. we admired the opulent neighborhoods of kensington, the quaint, colorful crescents of notting hill and primrose hill, and popped into storefronts and pubs from islington to camden. having once been so confident and comfortable, i was surprised i had to relearn simple things like pedestrian rules for crossing the street. other things - like my old walk to work through regent's park, down harley street to grosvenor square or up kensington church street to the notting hill coronet - came back quickly.

it's amazing to me how much and how little has changed in five years since i moved back home to start my working life in dc. steve tested and confirmed they still make the very best, buttery clouds they call croissants at the french patisserie around the corner from my old dorm, though the handsome, brooding french waiters have moved on. some sketchy blocks on my late night walk home off the 24 bus route are now fully gentrified. where the camden and chalk farm of my early twenties was all dinge, late night music halls, and chip shops, now there are craft beer gardens, tapas restaurants, and artisanal cheese shops. 

it was fun to see the city through a new lens with steve as my tastes and interests have certainly changed since i lived here as an undergraduate and graduate student. we sampled a new trendy indian restaurant, cinnamon soho, which put a modern twist on traditional, family style dishes. hot off our trip to napa and sonoma, we plotted opening a "new world" wine shop in london to fill the gaping hole on most london wine lists and store shelves (we actively searched!) with the big, fruity cabs and zins that california has to offer. any investors out there? let's talk!

in sum, i still love this city, and steve and i loved being there together. tons of green space, rich with diversity and tradition, yet ever-changing with new things to see and do - london fits us perfectly.

here are our pics from london